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The Top 8 Strategies For Sewing With Silk Fabric:
1. AVOID WATERMARKS BY PREWASHING.
Constantly test your silk before you start to your likelihood of showing watermarks. This can be a true challenge as pressing, especially with vapor, is a critical portion of stitching any outfit, silk or differently.
A great deal of silk materials nowadays is washable. The best method to combat marks out of water is to wash off the silk before you begin. Once washed, water spots do not linger and only disappear. However, with some silks, the finish is ever-so-slightly changed when cleaned. Still, I prefer that to have to fret about splashes staining my toolbox or the expense of dry cleaning.
2. USE WEIGHTS AND A ROTARY CUTTER.
Many kinds of silk are lightweight so that they have a tendency to slip and slide all over the outer board. Utilize pattern weights to maintain the fabric to the board and employ a rotary cutter with a new blade to find the very best and most precise cuts. Both the weights and cutter stop the fabric from shifting about so patterns are cut right.
If you don’t have an inkjet printer, the following best alternative is to utilize micro-serrated shears. Unlike regular dressmaker shears, the serrated blades hold and grip the cloth so the fabric won’t slip away.
3. TEST FABRIC PENS.
Be particularly cautious with cloth pens as some may bleed or will not totally disappear as expected on some silks. Test before you markers. This is particularly true for tailor’s chalk. Pressing will melt off the color, however, leaves a stain on the fabric. Think about the sharp line of a normal pen for marks that’ll be hidden within seam allowances or utilize tailors tacks.
4. AVOID PERMANENT MARKS FROM PINS AND NEEDLES.
Pin and needle holes in some silks, like shantung, are durable so there are no do-overs. This implies prep and fit twice, sew after! Do all of your fittings before you cut the first pattern bit as ripping a seam will leave marks! Or, hand baste seams in place utilizing silk thread to check the match before any permanent and final stitching is completed.
5. USE THE RIGHT PINS AND NEEDLES.
Use the correct pins and needles when sewing with silk. Extra-fine or ultra-fine glass head pins and silk pins are your best options when working with silk since they are not as likely to show pinhole marks and they’ll glide through the cloth preventing any unwanted snags.
6. TEST YOUR MACHINE.
Examine your system stitching on a scrap of the lace fabric before sewing to check the pressure, needle quality, and stitch length. If stitches are spilled or so the needle snags the cloth, a fresh needle is so. Or, do what I do, start with a new #60 or 70 needle in the get-go.
7. PRESS CAREFULLY.
Ironing silk fabrics requires great care. Again, depending upon the silk, some may manage steam, some cannot. With many fine silks, like dupioni and shantung, any pressed creases can be tricky to find out, creating any pressing mistakes permanent. Consistently use a pressing cloth, like a piece of silk organza to protect the fabric. The see-through nature of the organza can stop any undesirable pressing errors.
8. STRAY FROM THE FRAY.
Silk cloth has a propensity to fray a good deal! This means all steps should be utilized to reduce or remove excess fraying as soon as pattern pieces are trimmed. In case you have a serger, maintain your sanity by overcasting most of the raw edges of each routine bit before assembling begins.
No serger? What exactly I do with many sheer or very lightweight materials — Fuse narrow pieces of fusible interfacing (1/8″ — 1/4″ wide) along all of the borders of each pattern piece. Yes, this really is time-consuming, but trust me, also well worth the attempt as fraying can come to be so excessive it may substantially lower your seam allowances along important seams and hems.
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